Cast Two Collet Brooch
    
    The model for my replica is a UK metal-detector find with no provenance. It is a Deavy Class 6b brooch? , with multiple collets and no bosses. Made of a copper alloy, it is 2.5cm in diameter and 7.5mm tall. It has two tall collets for now-missing stones, and the collets contain white paste. The ring has been decorated with blind drilling and file-work. The pin is missing.

cast brooch originalcast brooch replica
Original                                                        Replica

Construction

    I decided to cuttle cast my replica, as it is a medieval technique that I have some familiarity with.
Cennino d'Andrea Cennini (c. 1370 – c. 1440) describes "di seppia, di quella che gli orefici adoperano per improntare", "cuttle such as the goldsmiths use for casting (impressing)".

cuttle mould
Medieval cuttlebone mould in the Museum of London

whole

    I took a pet-store purchased cuttle bone, and sawed the end off, using a hacksaw. I then cut it  in half  (badly, but that didn't affect the process).



    I took the antique brooch and pressed it into one side of the cuttle. Next, I cut pouring gates in  both pieces, and air vents in the impressed half. I bound both halves together with masking tape, and pushed it into a sand-filled replica medieval pot. I then melted  some bronze (using modern equipment), and poured it  into the inlet.



    I tossed the cuttle into a bucket of water, and waited a moment for it to cool. Opening it revealed a successful cast.

 



    I cut the sprue off, and finished and polished using modern tools. I drilled out the collets to match the original, as the casting process filled in the holes.
    I chose to set green glass cabachons in the brooch. In the regulations of the Goldsmiths of London, it was forbidden to set real gemstones in anything but silver or gold: "'ne dreit piere ne fust assis en latout n'en quivere..."?  Most of the surviving glass stones in my annular brooch collection are a particular green, which I was able to match closely. I cemented the cabachons  into their collets with a mixture of Plaster of Paris and casein glue, as this seems to produce a good match to the cement often seen in surviving brooches, and is similar to both traditional jewellery practice and medieval glues.
    I finished the brooch by fitting a sharpened brass wire pin.











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